Step 1. Choose the Correct Hitch Ball

​·    Size Matters: The ball size must ​ ​effectively match the trailer's ​ ​coupler size. This is stamped ​ ​on the trailer coupler (e.g., 1- ​ ​7/8", 2", or 2-5/16").

Warning: Never use a smaller ball with a larger coupler (e.g., a 1-7/8" ball in a 2" coupler). It may feel secure when stopped, but the trailer can pop off when you hit a bump.

​·   Weight Rating: Check the weight ​ ​rating stamped on top of the ​ ​ball. It must exceed the Gross ​ ​Trailer Weight (GTW) (trailer ​ ​weight + maximum cargo ​ ​​weight).

Step 2. Measure for the Correct "Drop" ​or "Rise" - To tow safely, your trailer ​must sit level. If it tilts up or down, ​you risk trailer sway or bottoming ​out.

1. Measure Hitch Height: Park your vehicle on level ground. Measure from the ground to the top inside edge of your receiver tube.
2. Measure Coupler Height: Level the trailer so the frame is parallel to the ground. Measure from the ground to the bottom of the coupler.
3. The Formula: Hitch Height - Coupler Height = Drop Required.
4. • Example: If your truck hitch is 20" high and the trailer coupler is 16" high, you need a 4" Drop ball mount.

Step 1: Alignment

​1. Back your vehicle up slowly. Use a ​​​backup camera or a spotter if​​ ​ ​available.

​2. Align the hitch ball directly under ​ ​the trailer coupler.

​3. Tip: If you miss slightly, it is safer ​ ​to pull forward and try again ​ ​than to try and ​drag the heavy ​ ​trailer sideways by hand, ​ ​ ​​which can cause back ​ ​   ​​injury.

Step 2: Coupling

1. Unlock the Coupler: Lift the locking latch on the trailer coupler to the "open" position.
2. Lower the Trailer: Crank the trailer jack handle to lower the coupler onto the ball.
3. Engage the Latch: Once seated, push the latch down to the "locked" position. You should feel it click or snap into place.
4. The "Tug" Test: Before fully retracting the jack, crank it up slightly. If the back of your truck rises with the trailer, the connection is solid. If the coupler pops off, it wasn't seated properly.
5. Pin It: Insert the safety pin or lock through the latch hole to prevent it from vibrating open during transit.

Step 3: Safety Chains (The "X" Pattern)

• Cross the safety chains under the coupler to form an "X" or cradle.
• Why? If the hitch fails, the crossed chains will catch the trailer tongue, preventing it from digging into the pavement and catapulting the trailer.
• Connect the hooks to the vehicle's receiver loops (not the bumper).

Step 4: Electrical & Breakaway

• Plug in the lights: Connect the 4-way or 7-way plug. Use a small amount of dielectric grease on the pins to prevent corrosion.
• Breakaway Cable (if equipped): Connect this separate thin cable to the vehicle frame. Do not wrap it around the safety chains. If the trailer disconnects, this cable pulls a pin that activates the trailer's emergency brakes.

1. The 60/40 Rule

• Place 60% of the cargo weight in the front half of the trailer (ahead of the axle).
• Place 40% of the cargo weight in the rear half.
• Visual Check: The trailer tongue should press down on your truck's hitch. If the trailer tongue is lifting up (making the truck rear rise), you have too much weight in the back. This is extremely dangerous.

2. Center of Gravity

• Keep the load centered left-to-right. An unbalanced load causes tire blowouts and flipping.
• Keep heavy items as low to the floor as possible.

How to Use a Ratchet Strap:

1. Inspect: Check straps for fraying or cuts. Do not use if damaged.
2. Thread: Feed the webbing through the bottom of the center spool and pull it back out the top.
3. Remove Slack: Pull the free end of the strap until it is tight against the cargo before you start ratcheting.
4. Ratchet: Crank the handle until the strap is extremely taut.
5. Lock: Close the ratchet handle completely (flat against the strap) to engage the safety lock.
6. Secure Excess: Tie off the loose end of the strap so it doesn't flap in the wind, which can fray the strap or damage paint.

For Vehicles:

• Use axle straps or wheel nets. Do not attach straps to the vehicle's suspension or body, as the vehicle's suspension will compress and rebound over bumps, causing the straps to loosen.

1. Lights: Have a helper press the brakes and turn signals while you check the back.
2. • Troubleshooting: If lights act weird (flickering, wrong light flashing), it is almost always a ground wire issue. Check that the white wire is securely grounded to the metal frame on both the truck and trailer.
3. Coupler: Is the pin inserted?
4. Chains: Are they crossed and secure?
5. Jack: Is the trailer jack fully raised (or removed) and locked so it doesn't hit the ground?
6. Tires: Check air pressure on cold tires. Trailer tires require higher pressure (often 50–80 psi) than car tires. Under-inflation causes blowouts.
7. Lug Nuts: Retorque aluminum wheels after the first 50 miles of towing.

Stopping Requirement: Stop after the first 10–15 miles to re-check your load straps. Cargo often "settles" and loosens the straps after the first few bumps.